[1.7.10][LISTED] InfiTech 2 Modpack v3.2.21 [HQM][GregTech balanced hard-mode modpack]

[asb3pe]

Yeah blue power is highly annoying in that regard. And it doesn't always talk "properly" to other redstone systems One of the benefits of Project Red over BP imo.

I can't recommend strongly enough that you test RS latches on the ground, away from your tank, using buttons to simulate the activated states.

I think I've got a plan in my mind, but let's see if I can implement it today. I have a vanilla Comparator at the tank valve with a line of redstone dust 15 long. Using repeaters, I'll pull the signal off this line at segments 3 and 12 (corresponding to 1/4 tank full and 3/4 tank full values). Then, using these as input signals, I'm gonna combine the outputs of a NOR gate and an AND gate into an RS Latch. I think this will turn the Boiler off at 3/4 full and turn it on at 1/4 full. I hope I can do it.

The BP stuff might not be the best, but it has one big plus - you can mount them anywhere, sideways or even upside down on the ceiling. Really helps me save some space, I hate big, messy crap, and I cannot hide it because I need to keep it close to the tank/boiler and need to keep it in the same chunk so it all works when I'm offline.

 

[Pyure]

I like where your mind's at

You may have better luck with just a NOT gate, but a NOR will probably do it. But you'll probably need 3 signals coming from your tank in your setup.

 

[asb3pe]

I like where your mind's at

You may have better luck with just a NOT gate, but a NOR will probably do it. But you'll probably need 3 signals coming from your tank in your setup.

Well NOR is supposed to only turn on when both inputs are OFF... which would correspond to the tank being less than 1/4 full - so this is our 'reset' signal into the RS Latch.

However, I just made the Blue Power NOR gate and put it down. One input is on, one input is off (my tank is about 1/2 full). So the NOR output should be OFF. Instead... the output is ON.

I'm really ready to just give up on this crap. LOL But manual control of stuff leads to human errors, so I need to get this damn thing automated fully.

I see what you're saying, Pyure - we don't need the NOR, we just need a NOT gate (just invert the signal) on the signal from the 3rd segment (corresponding to 1/4 tank full level), because when the tank is 1/4 full we already know the 3/4 tank signal is gonna be OFF (there's no way it could ever be ON). Thanks. I'll go try that instead.

 

[Pyure]

There's no reason at all to give up, or even get particularly frustrated in this project.

The good news is several people on the thread have confirmed you CAN do it, its just a matter of asking questions and getting the answers you need

 

[asb3pe]

There's no reason at all to give up, or even get particularly frustrated in this project.

The good news is several people on the thread have confirmed you CAN do it, its just a matter of asking questions and getting the answers you need

All I can think about is all that Testlatite that I didn't mine because "when am I ever gonna need that stuff"? Well, I need that stuff now. haha

Yeah, I'll get it working for sure, I know I'm very close. For some reason, electrical stuff makes my head spin. I really did quit EE in college decades ago. Didn't like it then, and still don't like it now.

I've just never really liked how redstone circuits requires a big area. Imagine if we didn't have some Blue Power blocks which reduces the circuitry layout size? Ugh. Redstone circuits are messy and usually have to be hidden, but I'm working off a 3-chunk layout and thus I have no space to hide it, it's gotta be messy and right out in the open. YUCK.

I probably could avoid all this mess if I would just learn OpenComputers, right? Set up a little program that just says "turn boiler on at tank=25% full and turn boiler off at tank=75% full" and be done with it. That's really what I'd like most. Not this redstone crap. hahaha

 

[Pyure]

If you figure out the OC version, lemme know. I'd like to know it too

If floor space is an issue, you can try transmitting the signal elsewhere, to a logic room.

 

[Pyure]

This probably won't help you much, but there's a picture of an old setup of mine here (Open the Spoiler):
http://forum.feed-the-beast.com/thr...pdated-09-27-2015.50185/page-253#post-1323095

There's two paths for signals: one for "tank kinda full" and one for "tank kinda empty".
If I remember correctly, each path hits, in sequence:
1) a pulse former (because I dont want to send continuous signals into the latch)
2) a repeater (because I want to delay the signal for a few ticks due to server-restart shenanigans)
3) an input of the RS latch

The RS latch itself has to be in the correct configuration. It changes visually depending on what config its in, so hopefully you can use my image to figure out the right one.
The output of the latch is the signal going into whatever is supposed to turn on (in your case a Boiler)

 

[asb3pe]

I just realized my messy redstone layout can be massively reduced in size by the use of insulated redstone conduit. DOH! I was using red alloy wire on the walls and floor which meant I had to keep all the circuitry separated by one block so they wouldn't touch or cross. With the conduits, I can probably do the entire circuit on the wall or even up on the ceiling (making Conduit Binder right now for it). I have 2 floors in my base. The RC tank is on the top floor, so that's where the comparator is since vanilla comparators must be placed on the ground, they can't be placed on a wall sideways or upside down (say, on the bottom of the RC tank). Then I have 12 lengths of vanilla redstone dust on the floor coming off the comparator (that's the messy part, the long line of redstone dust). But this allow me to then go to the lower floor and place redstone conduit on the ceiling blocks, directly underneath segments 3 and 12 of the redstone dust on the floor above. Those signals then become my inputs for the next circuit, with an AND gate as the "Reset" (turn redstone signal to Boiler off) and the NOT gate as the "Set" (turn redstone signal to Boiler back on) going into the RS Latch. The output from the Latch then attaches to the Machine Controller cover on the bottom of my GT Large Boiler Controller block, which i can see from the lower floor where my circuitry is, even tho the tank itself is upstairs, adjacent to the RC tank.

And yes, you're definitely correct about the need for pulse formers since continuous redstone signal to RS Latch won't work. Got that figured in too.

 

[Pyure]

Nice! I believe BP is also FMP compatible, so you can also make "strips" and "panels" to keep your wiring separated if you prefer.

 

[SolManX]

I just realized my messy redstone layout can be massively reduced in size by the use of insulated redstone conduit. DOH! I was using red alloy wire on the walls and floor which meant I had to keep all the circuitry separated by one block so they wouldn't touch or cross. With the conduits, I can probably do the entire circuit on the wall or even up on the ceiling (making Conduit Binder right now for it). I have 2 floors in my base. The RC tank is on the top floor, so that's where the comparator is since vanilla comparators must be placed on the ground, they can't be placed on a wall sideways or upside down (say, on the bottom of the RC tank). Then I have 12 lengths of vanilla redstone dust on the floor coming off the comparator (that's the messy part, the long line of redstone dust). But this allow me to then go to the lower floor and place redstone conduit on the ceiling blocks, directly underneath segments 3 and 12 of the redstone dust on the floor above. Those signals then become my inputs for the next circuit, with an AND gate as the "Reset" (turn redstone signal to Boiler off) and the NOT gate as the "Set" (turn redstone signal to Boiler back on) going into the RS Latch. The output from the Latch then attaches to the Machine Controller cover on the bottom of my GT Large Boiler Controller block, which i can see from the lower floor where my circuitry is, even tho the tank itself is upstairs, adjacent to the RC tank.

And yes, you're definitely correct about the need for pulse formers since continuous redstone signal to RS Latch won't work. Got that figured in too.

Cool - I thought you would've needed to use two comparators, but you managed with one. You're a redstone whizz!

 

[asb3pe]

Cool - I thought you would've needed to use two comparators, but you managed with one. You're a redstone whizz!

Uhhhhh no. I'm not a whizzz at all. LOL And I began the project with two comparators before I realized that one would suffice. I think think my setup is "klunky" and messy, I really really dislike lines of redstone dust snaking around the floor of my base... but in the end, the most important thing in my base is the GT Large Boiler/RC Tank combo, and thus all else must pale in importance. Including messes.

First test has failed. Blue Power devices seem very suspect. RS Latch not flipping state properly, but it could be the Pulse Formers too.

I broke the Blue Power RS Latch that was attached to the underside of my ceiling block and nothing showed up in my inventory. The item seemed to have disappeared. Then I went upstairs and it was laying on the floor up there, somehow it teleported thru the ceiling blocks when I broke it. Not real sure about how stable this mod is, like Pyure indicated. I'm def suspicious of it right now. Off for more testing to try and figure out what's wrong.

 

[asb3pe]

This probably won't help you much, but there's a picture of an old setup of mine here (Open the Spoiler):
http://forum.feed-the-beast.com/thr...pdated-09-27-2015.50185/page-253#post-1323095

There's two paths for signals: one for "tank kinda full" and one for "tank kinda empty".
If I remember correctly, each path hits, in sequence:
1) a pulse former (because I dont want to send continuous signals into the latch)
2) a repeater (because I want to delay the signal for a few ticks due to server-restart shenanigans)
3) an input of the RS latch

The RS latch itself has to be in the correct configuration. It changes visually depending on what config its in, so hopefully you can use my image to figure out the right one.
The output of the latch is the signal going into whatever is supposed to turn on (in your case a Boiler)

Yeah, I just realized the RS Latch has two configurations (it didn't register when I read your post the first time). There's just no documentation anywhere in the internet for this mod, none that I can find anyways. Been searching for RedPower instead, with limited success.

So one problem is that I didn't have the Latch configured properly. However, in my testing, the Latch now wants to go crazy, it gets into a state where the outputs are flipping so fast it looks like a redstone strobe light. LOL

Edit: Okay, it looks like I had two problems, both solved by Pyure's screenshot. Thanks Pyrure! First, I had the LS Latch in the wrong mode. Shift-right click with the BP screwdriver on the Latch until you get to the first mode that looks like his image, that's the proper mode. Second, I had the Pulse Formers right up against the Latch. But Pyure has Repeaters between them, so I tried it. And it works! So the repeaters are not there for "server-restart shenanigans", they are actually required to slow the pulse down so that the RS Latch doesn't get confused by the too-rapid pulse.

Gonna put it back on the ceiling now and do a full RC tank cycle to see if this solves it!

 

[Pyure]

I've seen the strobelight effect myself a bunch. It usually means there's a redstone signal loop somewhere.

I *believe* there's 4 modes on the latch but don't quote me on that.

Use my image I provided you to get an idea of the "correct" mode. Its hard to make out but it might help.

 

[asb3pe]

I've seen the strobelight effect myself a bunch. It usually means there's a redstone signal loop somewhere.

I *believe* there's 4 modes on the latch but don't quote me on that.

Use my image I provided you to get an idea of the "correct" mode. Its hard to make out but it might help.

The RS Latch appears to have 5 modes. You have the default mode when you place it down, but you can shift-rightclick with the BP Screwdriver and it takes 5 clicks to return to the default. So it seems like 5 modes, and 4 of them look like your screenshot. The default mode looks entirely different. Really need a wiki for this mod, badly!

I think the strobe effect was coming from the Pulse Formers, because when I put repeaters between the Pulse and Latch, the Latch works perfectly with no strobe light effect at all. But the true test is whether it will all work with the Boiler/Tank or not. Testing now, hope I've got it!

Nope. Test 2 failed also. RS Latch works fine when on the floor testing it, but still not working in the actual circuit itself. sigh See why I hate this stuff with a passion? LOL I'll end up spending all day long to get one stupid little simple circuit working properly.

 

[asb3pe]

Think I found the problem, its the Inverter (the NOT gate) from Blue Power. It isn't working properly in conjunction with the EnderIO Redstone Conduit even tho I wrenched the end of the conduit to enable the connection (like I always have to do to connect the Conduit to all such Blue Power blocks). For some reason the NOT gate won't flip its state when the redstone input flips on/off. I've tried using Red Alloy Wire at the gate and also made some Bluestone Wire to try that too, but the NOT gate is still getting stuck on one output state regardless of the input state. sigh I also tried checking "send strong signal" in the conduit. Luckily, of all the logic gates, the NOT gate is literally the simplest one, so I can prob rig up a vanilla solution using a redstone torch to do the same thing. grrrr

Took entire thing down and laid it out on the floor like you said, to test it. Seems like the AND logic gate is also not working properly with EnderIO Redstone Conduit connections, that's the issue. So I replaced all the conduit with Red Alloy Wire and it works. The "strobe light" effect on the RS Latch goes away once I set the Repeaters that follow in line with the Pulse Formers to the first click. Default BP Repeater is too quick and gives the strobe effect. Add just one click to the repeater delay and it all works perfectly.

So... back onto the wall it goes and see if it works this time! Luckily, it seems that the RS Latch works with Redstone Conduit attached to the output, so it will be easy to get the final signal over to the GT Large Boiler Controller block.

 

[Jason McRay]

Think I found the problem, its the Inverter (the NOT gate) from Blue Power. It isn't working properly in conjunction with the EnderIO Redstone Conduit even tho I wrenched the end of the conduit to enable the connection (like I always have to do to connect the Conduit to all such Blue Power blocks). For some reason the NOT gate won't flip its state when the redstone input flips on/off. I've tried using Red Alloy Wire at the gate and also made some Bluestone Wire to try that too, but the NOT gate is still getting stuck on one output state regardless of the input state. sigh I also tried checking "send strong signal" in the conduit. Luckily, of all the logic gates, the NOT gate is literally the simplest one, so I can prob rig up a vanilla solution using a redstone torch to do the same thing. grrrr

Took entire thing down and laid it out on the floor like you said, to test it. Seems like the AND logic gate is also not working properly with EnderIO Redstone Conduit connections, that's the issue. So I replaced all the conduit with Red Alloy Wire and it works. The "strobe light" effect on the RS Latch goes away once I set the Repeaters that follow in line with the Pulse Formers to the first click. Default BP Repeater is too quick and gives the strobe effect. Add just one click to the repeater delay and it all works perfectly.

So... back onto the wall it goes and see if it works this time! Luckily, it seems that the RS Latch works with Redstone Conduit attached to the output, so it will be easy to get the final signal over to the GT Large Boiler Controller block.

if I am understanding you correctly, you are trying to do exactly the same as I have done.
Self promotion time i guess :

 

[asb3pe]

Thanks for the video, I learned a few things but the bottom line is exactly what you said at 8:15 - the BluePower stuff can be a little bit derpy, laggy and buggy. INDEED.

I cannot get my circuit working at all. The NOT gate will not change its state even if the input state changes. It's supposed to change its state to be the opposite of the input state. And the AND gate isn't working properly either. I GIVE UP. For now. sigh Obv I'll be back at it later but I'm entirely fed up at the moment. Part of my problem is my OCD Neat-freak issue, I've been trying to build it on my ceiling to keep the circuit mess out of the way, but 3 hours of working upside down has my brain in a spin. LOL It's almost as if the Blue Power blocks will not work when mounted upside down. I need to re-think the entire project in my head and see if I can't figure out another way. This is insane.

 

[Pyure]

"The NOT gate will not change its state even if the input state changes. "
This will only happen if you're sending the signal into the wrong end. If you can't get the NOT gate working, you're definitely messing something else up. This gate at least I know works

 

[asb3pe]

"The NOT gate will not change its state even if the input state changes. "
This will only happen if you're sending the signal into the wrong end. If you can't get the NOT gate working, you're definitely messing something else up. This gate at least I know works

The NOT gate is one input, 3 outputs, isn't it? Or do I have it backwards? I got it working on the floor with redstone dust but when I put it upside down on the ceiling with Ender IO Redstone Conduit, it doesn't work.

I'm madder than heck but I'm gonna break this damn thing down one more time and test it on the ground, right side up, with redstone conduit. Eight hours I've been working on this crap.

 

[Pyure]

No that sounds right to me.

BTW, whenever I have BP questions, I just check out the equivalent gate on the ProjectRed wiki.

They're all based solidly on RedPower anyway so they function essentially the same.

http://projectredwiki.com/wiki/NOT_Gate